Two-dimensional modelling of wave motion in shallow-water areas

A new mathematical model for prediction of a two-dimensional wave motion in shallow water is presented herein. It can be applied to investigate shoaling, diffraction, refraction, breaking, bottom friction and wave run-up on a beach, as well as mass transport and orbital motion. The model also includes an oblique wave approach to the shore and irregular bottom topography. Such engineering constructions as seawalls, breakwaters and groins are simulated numerically. Simple results of computations, shown in graphic form, indicate possible practical applications of the model.